On March 2, 2025, the Dolby Theatre in Los Angeles hosted the 97th Academy Awards, where The Substance took home the Oscar for Best Makeup and Hairstyling, outshining heavyweights like Wicked, Nosferatu, Emilia Pérez, and A Different Man. The stunning work by Pierre Olivier Persin, Stéphanie Guillon, and Marilyne Scarselli transformed Demi Moore and Margaret Qualley into striking figures in a visceral body horror satire critiquing beauty standards. Before its Oscar win, the film, directed by Coralie Fargeat, had already secured the Critics Choice and BAFTA awards in the same category, earning five nominations at the Oscars, including Best Picture, Best Director, and Best Actress for Moore. In Brazil, The Substance debuted with limited screenings and shone at the Rio Film Festival in October 2024, where audiences marveled at the practical effects driving the plot. Produced on a $17 million budget, the film stood out for its bold approach, elevating the horror genre to a rare pedestal in Academy history.
The win reflects the technical brilliance of the team, who used silicone prosthetics and practical effects to craft transformations ranging from flawless youthful skin to grotesque, decaying bodies. These visuals were pivotal to the narrative, exploring aging and aesthetic pressure with unflinching intensity.
Another notable aspect was the controversy surrounding Frédérique Arguello, head of the hair department, who claimed she was unfairly excluded from the nomination in favor of Scarselli, despite her critical role in the film’s hairstyles.
A favoritism built throughout the year
The Substance had been a strong Oscar contender since its Critics Choice and BAFTA wins in February 2025, solidifying its dominance in the makeup and hairstyling category.
Even against visually striking competitors like Wicked and Nosferatu, Fargeat’s film distinguished itself through originality and the seamless integration of effects into its core message.
The artisanal work that won the Academy
Turning Demi Moore into Elisabeth Sparkle, a fading TV star, demanded meticulous effort from Pierre Olivier Persin’s team. Thin silicone prosthetics simulated artificial youth, while thicker layers distorted bones and joints, depicting a physical decay mirroring the character’s inner horror. The final transformation into “Monster Elisasue” blended silicone and foam to create a figure that shocked and captivated audiences.
Compared to Wicked, which relied on body paint for Cynthia Erivo, or Nosferatu, with its gothic makeup, The Substance went further by making effects an extension of the story. Every visual detail reinforced the satire on beauty standards and the obsession with perfection.
The hairstyles, overseen by Frédérique Arguello and Marilyne Scarselli, also dazzled. From sleek, glossy locks to thinning wigs evoking vulnerability, the work complemented the physical transformations, tracing the narrative’s visual evolution.
A technical triumph for genre cinema
Producing a horror film that lands five Oscar nominations is a rarity, and winning for makeup underscores The Substance as a genre-elevating work. Since the category’s inception in 1981, few horror films have won, with standouts like An American Werewolf in London and The Fly. Persin, Guillon, and Scarselli’s efforts, on a $17 million budget, prioritized practical effects over CGI, a choice that caught the Academy’s eye for its authenticity.
Applying prosthetics to Demi Moore required daily sessions of up to eight hours for the most intricate scenes, like the “Monster Elisasue” transformation. This hands-on approach delivered a raw texture CGI struggles to replicate, impressing voters.
In Brazil, the film resonated at events like the Rio Film Festival, where practical effects were hailed as a major draw. The makeup not only fueled the horror but amplified the social critique woven into the plot.
Controversy behind the victory
Frédérique Arguello’s exclusion from the Oscar nomination sparked heated debate before the ceremony. Arguello, who handled Moore and Qualley’s hair, claimed leadership of the department, only to see her assistant, Marilyne Scarselli, named instead. The Academy’s rule capping the category at three nominees explained the choice, but criticism lingered.
Onstage at the Dolby Theatre, Persin, Guillon, and Scarselli accepted the award amid thunderous applause, though the controversy continued to ripple across social media. The episode added an extra layer of scrutiny to the win, without overshadowing its technical merit.
Milestones in The Substance’s journey
The Substance’s rise to the Oscars was marked by key moments that highlight its significance:
- May 2024: Premiered at Cannes, winning Best Screenplay.
- September 2024: U.S. release, with praise for its makeup.
- October 2024: Screened at Rio Film Festival, captivating Brazilian audiences.
- January 2025: Earned five Oscar nominations, including Best Makeup and Hairstyling.
- February 2025: Swept Critics Choice and BAFTA, paving the way.
- March 2, 2025: Secured the Oscar at the Dolby Theatre.
These milestones trace the film’s evolution from a daring gamble to a standout in the awards season.
Elements that defined the makeup’s success
The makeup in The Substance stood out for specific features that wowed:
- Thin silicone prosthetics for Elisabeth’s artificial youth.
- Thick layers deforming the body, evoking a sickly look.
- Foam and silicone in “Monster Elisasue” for a striking effect.
- Hairstyles shifting from elegant to sparse, tracking decay.
- Effects woven into the critique of beauty and aging.
These technical details proved decisive in outpacing rivals like Emilia Pérez and A Different Man.
A legacy for award-winning horror
Winning Best Makeup and Hairstyling places The Substance among a select group of horror films honored by the Academy. Since 1981, only seven genre entries have triumphed, including Bram Stoker’s Dracula (1992) and Eyes Without a Face (1989). The 2025 win signals a gradual shift in recognizing horror as cinematic art.
The team’s choice of practical effects on a $17 million budget defied the CGI trend in modern filmmaking. Moore’s transformation, requiring up to eight hours daily, exemplifies the artisanal care that shaped the film’s unique visual identity.
In Brazil, screenings at festivals like Rio showcased the makeup’s pivotal role. Audiences praised the prosthetics’ lifelike texture and the hairstyles’ narrative depth, broadening the film’s impact.
A milestone for French cinema at the Oscars
Pierre Olivier Persin, Stéphanie Guillon, and Marilyne Scarselli, all Oscar newcomers, elevated French cinema with this win. While horror isn’t a French mainstay, The Substance drew from influences like Cronenberg’s body horror, blending local roots with global appeal.
At the Dolby Theatre, Persin thanked Moore and Qualley, stressing how the effects hinged on their performances. The victory marked a proud moment for the team, turning constraints into innovation.