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Met inaugurates mannequins with real bodies in exhibition about inclusion in fashion

Maria
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Foto: Manequim - sav_an_dreas / shutterstock.com

Metropolitan Museum of Art opened the Costume Art exhibition with a significant innovation: nine mannequins modeled after real bodies, including people with amputations, pregnant women, wheelchair users, trans people and people with dwarfism. The exhibition occupies the new permanent galleries Condé M. Nast and marks an important step in the representation of the fashion universe within one of the most influential institutions in the world. The mannequins’ faces have been replaced with polished steel surfaces, allowing visitors to see their own reflection when viewing the pieces on display.

Modelos and activists who inspired the mannequins

The creation of the new supports involved real people who became a reference for the creative industry. Model and actress Aimee Mullins, who lost her lower legs in childhood, posed for one of the mannequins. Artist Michaela Stark, known for exploring the body and beauty standards in her work, served as inspiration for three different mannequins. Black trans model Aariana Rose Philip was also part of the project, as was Sinéad Burke, an Irish activist with dwarfism, who posed for two mannequins.

Esses bodies contrast radically with traditional fashion mannequins, which historically follow measurements close to sizes 36 and 38. The Costume Institute curatorship, led by Andrew Bolton, planned the inclusion to broaden the narrative about who belongs in fashion history. The models who participated in the project highlighted the institutional nature of this change, recognizing its impact on representation.

  • Aimee Mullins inspired mannequin with lower leg amputation.
  • Michaela Stark served as the basis for three mannequins with voluminous bodies.
  • Aariana Rose Philip represented the trans body at the exhibition.
  • Sinéad Burke posed for dummies with dwarfism.
  • Rostos in polished steel reflect the visitor while viewing the pieces.

Estrutura and Costume Art exhibition content

The exhibit occupies approximately 11,500 square feet at the museum’s main entrance. The space brings together almost 200 works of art from different Met departments with approximately 200 pieces of clothing and accessories from various eras. Cada display pair associates a classic work — from Impressionism, antique Grécia or armory — to a piece of clothing, creating a visual dialogue between art and fashion.

The guiding thread of the exhibition is the clothed body, allowing historical and contemporary pieces to appear side by side. Essa layout demonstrates how fashion crosses all areas of the museum and different periods. The different mannequins appear interspersed with conventional models, reinforcing the idea that different bodies legitimately belong to the fashion universe. The exhibition will remain open for nine months, a longer period than usual in previous temporary exhibitions at the museum.

Inovação technique on display stands

Cada mannequin was custom-made, reproducing exact proportions of the bodies of the people who served as models. The reflective surface of the face was developed by sculptor Samar Hejazi, using polished steel that allows the viewer to project their own image onto the exposed clothing. Essa’s technical choice is not merely aesthetic, but functions as a central narrative element of the exhibition, connecting the public directly with the bodily experiences represented in the pieces.

The museum expects visitors to interact directly with the mannequins, stopping to observe the reflection and imagining themselves inside the clothes on display. Essa sensorial experience reinforces the central theme of the exhibition: the intrinsic relationship between body, clothing and artistic expression. The inauguration took place shortly after Met Gala, an event held on the first Monday in May, expanding the reach of the exhibition among the public and specialized media.

Institutional Contexto and expected impact

The initiative comes at a time of intense debate about diversity efforts in cultural institutions. By 2025, the previous exhibition on black dandies had already generated significant political repercussions. Agora, Met advances with concrete measures in the design of the exhibition supports themselves, transforming the physical infrastructure into an inclusion tool. The curators avoided explicit statements about the current political context, prioritizing instead the practical aspect of allowing more people to see themselves represented in the museum’s showcases.

The institution highlighted the nine new bodies as the main highlight of the renovation of the permanent galleries. The pieces will remain in the permanent collection of the Condé M. Nast galleries, ensuring that representation is not just a temporary initiative, but part of the museum’s institutional identity. Essa decision signals a long-term commitment to inclusion in the world of fashion and art.

Maria Clara é colaboradora da redação do Mix Vale, portal de notícias com cobertura de Brasil e mundo. Produz conteúdo nas editorias de economia e benefícios, com foco em informação de serviço para o leitor brasileiro. Escreve para o portal desde 2016: Formação: Atriz.

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